in this case, Chapter 21 of HP and the Prisoner of Azkaban...
“But Hermione was fumbling with the neck of her robes, pulling from beneath them a very long, very fine gold chain.
He saw a tiny, sparkling hourglass hanging from it.
‘Here!’ She had thrown the chain around his neck, too.
‘Ready?’ she said, breathlessly.”
–Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, Chapter 21 “Hermione’s Secret"
Disclaimer: This pattern has not been tested for accuracy.
If you wish to test it for me, let me know if it is accurate and understandable.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
ssk: slip next 2 stitches knitwise, then slipping left needle back into the stitches, knit them together through the back loops.
yf: yarn forward as if to purl
yb: yarn back, as if to knit
w4: yb, place next 4 st on cable needle, wrap yarn counterclockwise around these st 2 times, ending with yarn in place to k, k the 4 st from the cable needle.
The wraps create the middle of the hourglasses. Do not wrap too tightly, or the stretchiness of the sock will be compromised, but tight enough to gain the desired shape. I pulled mine just so the 4 stitches touched each other snuggly, but not so they overlapped each other.
See the tiny hourglasses?
Substitute any fingering weight yarn that gives desired gauge of 8 st/inch (stockinette).
Needles: as needed to obtain correct gauge. I used size 1US KnitPicks Options 40” circular needles.
If you need to make alteration to fit your desired size, I suggest decreasing stitches evenly spaced in row 53. I removed 8 stitches in my demo socks this way, with no discernible distortion. The written pattern reflects no decreased stitches. If a smaller size is needed, the pattern is a 12 st repeat.
Cast on 72 st. Join, being careful not to twist stitches. Work in whatever method you like: DPNs, 2 circs, or 1circ (aka Magic Loop). I prefer Magic Loop 2-at-a-time.
Place st marker at begin of row.
Work in 2x2 ribbing for 12 rows
r 13: p all st
r 14: *p2, k4 *repeat *to* around to marker.
r 15: p2, *k4, p8,* repeat *to* around to last 10 st before marker, end w/ k4, p6.
r 16, : repeat r 14
r 17: repeat r 15
r 18: repeat r 14
r 19: repeat r 15
r 20: *p2, w4, p2 k 4* repeat *to* around to marker.
r 21: repeat r 15
r 22: repeat r 14
r 23: repeat r 15
r 24: repeat r 14
r 25: repeat r 15
r 26: repeat r 13
r 27: repeat r 14
r 28: *p8, k4* repeat * to * around to marker.
r 29: repeat r 14
r 30: repeat r 28
r 31: repeat r 14
r 32: repeat r 28
r 33: *p2, k4, p2, w4* repeat * to * around to marker.
r 34: repeat r 28
r 35: repeat r 14
r 36: repeat r 28
r 37: repeat r 14
r 38: repeat r 28
r 39: repeat r 14
rows 40-53 repeat rows 13-26
Work heel over next 36 st, placing other st on st holder.
Work short row heel as in this link:
This shows the technique for toes, but it is the same as for heels, except for the cast on--you already have your stitches. You can also use this for the toes of top down socks--kitchener stitching the toe seam on the underside of the sock.
I also recommend Cat Bordhi’s YouTube videos for tips on concealing the wraps:
You may also use another heel pattern if you wish.
When the heel has been turned, put stitches from the holder back on your needles.
Work in stockinette until piece measures about 2 inches short of the toe ending, and begin decreases.
You can work short rows as in the knitty link if you wish, or as follows:
Working from marker at beginning of the rows,
1: k1, ssk, k 30, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 30, k2tog, k 1.
2: k all st
3: k1, ssk, k 28, k2tog, k 2, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1.
4: k all st
5: k1, ssk, k 26, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 26, k2tog, k 1.
6: k all st
7: k1, ssk, k 24, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 24, k2tog, k 1.
8: k all st
9: k1, ssk, k 22, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 22, k2tog, k 1.
10: k all st
11: k1, ssk, k 20, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 20, k2tog, k 1.
12: k all st
13: k1, ssk, k 18, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 18, k2tog, k 1.
14: k all st
15: k1, ssk, k 16, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 16, k2tog, k 1.
16: k all st
17: k1, ssk, k 14, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 14, k2tog, k 1.
18: k all st
19: k1, ssk, k 12, k2tog, k2, ssk, k 12, k2tog, k 1.
Graft toe seam using Kitchener st. Weave in ends.
Repeat for second sock.
This work is licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 Unported License.